Although known for its rich traditions, Paris keeps evolving – albeit much more gradually than other big metropoles like London or New York. It is a pleasure to watch it broaden its references, yet remain stubborn and proud of the Parisian lifestyle.
Whatever you think you know about France, some of it is true and some of it isn’t. The bread is that good. The waiters are brisk. The bike lanes are improving. The food markets, with their seasonal produce, are unparalleled. Many businesses are closed on Sundays. French people are serious about vacation time. Picnicking is an art here. Smokers are everywhere, and their cigarette butts are, too. People do not pick up after their dogs. Several hours for a meal is common at dinner and sometimes even at lunch. The wine bar is the French drinking staple.
Parlez-vous français?
Always say "bonjour" upon entering a store, hotel, or interacting with anyone in hospitality. A deferential "merci" when someone has helped you is always a good idea. If you bump into someone by accident, say "désolé" (apologies). The city is increasingly anglophone-friendly, but asking "parlez-vous anglais?" instead of launching right into English is a worthwhile gesture.
The classic images of Paris remain despite its modern transformations; people visiting still seem to want to pretend that they’re in a Nouvelle Vague film.
Originally a New Yorker, I have lived in Paris for nearly 17 years, mostly in the city’s northeastern quadrant. I have been working as a journalist and translator for the bulk of that time, writing about the vibrant art, food and cultural scenes. Paris is deemed “different” than the rest of France, but in many ways is the ultimate expression of French culture: lively and full of history.
Cultural attractions
Everyone knows the Louvre, but new museums have opened in the recent past, notably the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton in 2014 and the Tadao Ando-designed Bourse de Commerce in 2021. The Fondation Cartier has just relocated from the 6th arrondissement to the 1st arrondissement’s historic Place du Palais-Royal.
Paris has many known historical landmarks, museums and galleries. Many of them are in concentrated areas.
In the Marais, don’t miss the delightful oddity that is the Musée de la Chasse et la Nature, full of taxidermy and cabinets of curiosities. The recently renovated mid-16th-Century-built Musée Carnavalet-Histoire de Paris is a free museum about the annals of the city. The Musée National Picasso-Paris focuses on an artist who needs no introduction. For photography enthusiasts, there’s the MEP (Maison Européenne de la Photographie) and the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson. Many galleries are located in the Marais, including some of the bigger global names, like Marian Goodman, David Zwirner and Perrotin, all housed in former mansions. The Centre Pompidou is closed for renovations until 2030.